Legend has it that the soft pretzel dates back to the 1600s when monks baked dough in the
shape of praying angels.The scraps of bread
were given to children as rewards for good behavior.
German immigrants brought the tradition to America
when they settled in Pennsylvania in the 1700s. Pretzel making became an important part of
the states heritage.
When people think of Pennsylvania, they
think of pretzels, says native son Michael A. Rothman.
Pretzel makers were common in the Amish country of
Lancaster County when Rothmanwas growing up in nearby Harrisburg.
But it wasnt until years later, after he had
graduated from a college in Arizona, married and become a successful computer consultant
that those childhood memories resurfaced, changing the course of his life.
It started with a photograph.
Rothman was visiting his parents in Harrisburg
when he saw it in the local newspaper. A Lebanon, Pa., pretzel maker is captured in the
photo dumping a paddle of soft pretzels into baskets while customers stand, lined up
around the building to buy them.
When I saw that shot, Rothman says,
I said, Thats what I want to do. A picture is worth a thousand
words.
It was the memories of the rural countryside of
his home state that led Rothman to buy some land and an old farmhouse on Cherry Hill Road
in Davie County after accepting a computer consulting job with U.S. Airways.
Before that, Rothman had worked at Johns Hopkins
in Baltimore, where he met and married his wife, Donna.
Rothman and his mother had collaborated in a
business venture in the mid 80s, in which she created seasonings for hard pretzels
in her home and Rothman helped bake, package and market them on evenings and weekends. He
was doing that on a part-time basis when he and Donna moved to Davie.
Rothman gave up the hard pretzels in early 1997,
however, when the photograph prompted him to pursue the soft pretzels.
He approached a longtime Pennsylvania pretzel
maker about buying his recipe. After agreeing on a price and a contract whereby Rothman
would pay the man royalties for every pretzel sold, he was in business.
But first, he had to renovate the vacant building
on his property for use as a pretzel shop and buy the equipment to furnish it.
The work is chronicled in a series of photographs
displayed in two poster-size frames just inside the shop. They are followed by a
photograph of a RV which was parked in his driveway for a week while the pretzel maker
from whom he had bought the recipe taught him the fine art of pretzel making.
And it is an art, Rothman says.I think
probably the biggest challenge of this business is to be able to master making the
dough, he says.
There are so many factors a pretzel maker has to
consider, according to Rothman, such as temperature. If its too hot, for example,
the dough will rise too quickly.
Rothman uses high-protein flour to make the sour
dough for the pretzels. Its kind of stinky, but it gives it a good
flavor, he says while preparing a batch.
The 48 pounds of dough in the 80-quart, heavy-duty
mixer will yield 216 pretzels. This is a standard batch for us, he says.
After the dough has been kneaded to Rothmans
satisfaction, he picks it up and places it on a cutting board, where he cuts and weighs,
dividing it into six, 8-pound loaves.
Pretzel dough is stiff, he says,
tearing off a piece. Its like rubber.
A loaf fits into a dough divider, which Rothman
operates manually to form 36, 3.5-ounce dough balls.
I dont have fancy smancy
machinery, he says. Everythings done by brute force. When you start out,
you have to nickel and dime it.
Rothman pauses to give the dough time to relax.
When it comes out of the mixer, its real tight, he says.
Next, the balls run through a dough sheeter
machine, turning them into rolled strips of dough which are either twisted or left alone
depending on what kind of pretzel Rothman is making.
The next step is the most difficult for some
people, but Rothman picked it up on the fifth try.
Its making the twist.
Using both hands, Rothman rolls the dough until
its thin on both ends, then flips it over and crosses the ends in a twist, pushing
them into the dough to secure the shape.
What was unusual was that I picked it up so
quickly, he says. That was the spooky thing about it. It becomes sort of a
reflex after a while.
Though the traditional Pennsylvania soft pretzel
is evenly shaped, Rothman has developed his own unique style.
It just kind of evolved, he says.
You get hard little stick pretzels and a big fat pretzel you can sink your teeth
in.People are starting to know this as our pretzel.
Rothman says people often ask him how many
pretzels he has rolled in the two and a half years he has been doing this. Ive
probably rolled out at least a half a million to a million, easy, he says.
The dough for pretzel sticks, which also can be
used as hot dog buns, is baked like it comes out of the sheeter.
The twist and stick pretzels are dipped in a
mixture that gives them the brown coating and adds flavor. After pulling them out on a
drain board, he places them on specially designed baking sheets and sprinkles pretzel salt
on top.
From there, they go in the oven for 15 minutes,
and after a few minutes to cool down, theyre ready to eat.
Rothman can bake up to 120 pretzels at one time.
The first batch is recorded in the collage of
photographs. They tell the story of the Carolina Dutch Pretzel Company.
Thats the name Donna Rothman suggested when
they started the business. The Dutch is for Pennsylvania, he says. The
Carolina is for here.
As far as he knows, Rothman is the first person to
make Pennsylvania pretzels in North Carolina.
Its a unique thing, he says.
I just have to create a good market for it.
And he seems to be doing just that. The
demand for pretzels is really, really hot, he says.
Rothman delivers pretzels to schools in Davie and
Forsyth counties on a weekly basis. Davie County High School sells at least 10 dozen
pretzel sticks a week.
Kids love them, Rothman says.
They get addicted to them.
Rothman also delivers to hospitals and banks in
Winston-Salem and Ketchie Creek Bakery in Mocksville on a regular basis. In Salisbury, his
pretzels can be purchased at Rowan Regional Medical Center, the Hefner Veterans Affairs
Medical Center and, on Wednesdays, at Spankys Homemade Ice Cream and Deli.
He also sells pretzels at the Lawrence Joel
Vietnam Memorial Coliseum in Winston-Salem and at area weekend festivals. Rothmans
pretzels can also be purchased at area sporting events.
We like to consider ourselves the official
soft pretzel of the Demon Deacons, he says.
Rothman sells 400 to 2,000 pretzels a day at
weekend events for 75 cents to $1 apiece. Customers may choose from French, Dijon or
Rothmans own sweet variety of mustards.
What amazes him, he says, is when people put
mustard or ketchup on a cinnamon-and-sugar-flavored pretzel.
Getting pretzels ready for delivery calls for
early mornings, 3 a.m. in some cases, and late hours for Rothman.
When youre doing your own thing, you
have to be flexible, he says. This business is not 9 to 5.
Though his wife helps with deliveries and
bookkeeping, Rothman says pretzel making is basically a one-man job. If hes out
sick, nobody does it for me, he says. You have to be relentless. I have
some 20-hour days.
Marketing is a major part of the business. Making
contacts and following up with them is essential to success.
I feel the business has really challenged me
in all ways, Rothman says. Physically, its challenging. Emotionally,
its challenging.
But the most important challenge, he says, is to
have a good product. I think we have a good flavor as far as soft pretzels go.
Photographs of satisfied customers, many of them children, are included in the collage.
Thats the future generation of pretzel eaters, he says of one group of
children.
Rothman recently received an order for pretzels
shaped in letters to spell out a little girls name. Her parents put birthday candles
on them at a party in lieu of a cake.
Some native Germans who have bought Rothmans
pretzels have told him theyre better than what they can buy in their homeland.
I consider that very flattering, he says.
Though he works hard, Rothman is enjoying his role
as a pretzel maker.
Its a new twist on life, he
says. You get immediate feedback on how youre doing when people try your
product whereas in my old field, it would take forever.
The Carolina Dutch Pretzel Company is only open to
the public on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon. Soft pretzel twists and sticks and cinnamon
rolls are available on an ongoing basis.
In addition, Rothman is selling tins and
decorative bags of chocolate-covered pretzels for the holidays.
Pretzel twists and sticks and pretzel clusters,
which sell for $2 a pack, are coated with chocolate and decorated in festive holiday
colors. All of these make great stocking stuffers.
Holiday tins, which include an assortment of
chocolate covered pretzels and pretzel clusters, sell for $8.75.
Holiday gift bags, which include one pack each of
chocolate-covered twists, sticks and pretzel clusters, sell for $6.75.
Rothman will customize tins, gift bags or
individual packs upon request and will ship to friends, relatives and business associates
in other parts of the country.
n
The Carolina Dutch Pretzel Company is located at
136 Cherry Hill Road. To get there from Salisbury, take Highway 601 North to Cherry Hill
Road , which turns to the right 1.3 miles past the Davie County line, and go almost to the
end.
The pretzel company is on the left side within
sight of the stop sign for Highway 801. Look for the pretzel sign beside the road and on
the building.
To place orders, you may call or fax 336-940-2509,
or e-mail to pretzlman@mindspring.com.