Oysters for the holidays

‘Low-Country oystering’ by Michael J. Harrell, courtesy of Morris and Whiteside galleries

By Pat Branning

For The Salisbury Post

It was Jonathan Swift who said, "He was a bold man that first eat an oyster." Although oysters are harvested year-round in many areas, North Carolina's harvest begins in September just in time for those delicious holiday dressings, casseroles and stews. Right now they are in good supply locally. You can buy shucked oysters or shuck them yourself. Just be sure they smell like the sea!

A Christmas dinner at my house just wouldn't be complete without a delicious serving of oyster stuffing! My dad grew up on the Chesapeake Bay and fixed oysters every way there was to fix them. Stored in an old wooden file box is his recipe for oyster stuffing, updated, tried and true. The name comes from the fact that up until 1959 oystering was the only viable business, other than cotton and vegetable farming, for the Gullah natives of Daufuskie Island just off the coast of South Carolina. The Gullahs are the descendents of slaves who lived and worked on the barrier islands. Known for their high quality, Daufuskie oysters became famous and were shipped all over the world.

Daufuskie Island Oyster Stuffing

2 1/2 sticks butter

2 C. finely chopped celery

1 C. finely chopped sweet onion

2 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves

1/2 tsp. sage

1 Tbsp. celery seed, crushed

Salt and pepper to taste

2 1/2 pounds toasted cornbread crumbs

1 1/2 cups chicken broth

2 dozen oysters, shucked and liquid reserved

3 large eggs

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Heat the oven to 350 degrees and butter a 13-inch-by-9 inch baking casserole dish. Melt 2 sticks of the butter in a saut pan over low heat. Add celery and onion, fresh thyme leaves and sage, and cook until tender about 10-12 minutes. Pour into a large bowl and mix in toasted cornbread crumbs.

Return pan to high heat and pour in the broth. Pour hot broth over the cornbread mixture and stir until incorporated. Gently fold in the oysters and their liquid, beaten eggs, and parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Spoon stuffing into the casserole dish and dot with pieces of the remaining stick of butter. Use aluminum foil to cover the entire casserole and bake for 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake another 10 minutes until the top is golden brown.

Yields: 8 servings.

Note: You may purchase cornbread at a good bakery or make it yourself with good-quality stone-ground cornmeal. To prepare it for stuffing, crumble it into large chunks. Spread the crumbled bread on a baking sheet and toast it in a 275 degrees oven for 15 minutes.

Here's a simple recipe just right to serve along with a seafood dinner as holiday time rolls around. What better way to welcome the Christmas season than with a taste of the sea!

St. Helena's Oyster Fritters

St. Helena's is another barrier island off the coast of South Carolina where oysters are harvested in abundance.

3 cups well drained oysters

1/2 cup plus tablespoons self-rising flour

1/2 cup all purpose flour

Salt and pepper

1 Tbsp. garlic powder

1 Tbsp. onion powder

2 eggs

Cooking oil ( 350 degrees)

Combine dry ingredients. Whip eggs together and dip the oysters in the egg wash and then in the flour mixture. Do not allow them to stay in the flour mixture – they will get soggy. Fry in hot oil in a large skillet and drain on paper towels. Never crowd the oysters or cook too many at a time. Move them around carefully with a slotted spoon so that they will not stick to each other or to the pan. Oysters are ready after about one minute when they start to float to the top. However, most people like to let them cook a bit longer to get them extra crispy and golden brown. These fresh oysters are as essential to Southern holiday celebrations as cranberries.

Pat Branning lives in Salisbury.