globally apprehensive. Why was I feeling heightened
emotion?
Was it dreading the long, fatiguing travel to Anchorage
Was it
excitement about seeing Christian
Or was it worry about who will take care of Liz,
my daughter away at college, if anything happens to her or me during this trip? Whatever
the cause for concern, I started this journey with a sense of foreboding.
Charles says he and Christian share love
for each other, for nature, for the wilderness. So, as they left Elmendorf,
Christian is sad in saying goodbye to his first home, Charles wrote.
This is where he changed from an adolescent to manhood.
Here, Christian had learned to appreciate the
forces of nature after experiencing extreme ice and snow and earthquakes, and seeing the
topographic effects of the great one,which is said to have destroyed Alaska in
1964. He had seen Denali, the great mountain Native Americans had christened, the
Northern Lights and the Iditerod. He had camped as grizzly bears walked around
his tent, come upon an angry moose while hiking, and boated beside whales and sea lions.
And hed done it all alone.
In Alaska, people are getting killed by
natural events daily animals, floods, avalanches
Charles said.
The wilderness is right outside the door
. You see places that are so
beautiful and it creates a feeling of tranquility, but you can never relax because death
is just a blink of an eye away.
The pair felt at ease as the Tarheel blue blood
ran warm through their veins after finding, during a visit to the Alaska State Fair in the
Matanuska Valley, a Russian Orthodox Church. Two rugged-looking priests had a
bit more to share with them than the religious paraphernalia they were selling.
When asking where we were from, we answered,
North Carolina. The priest helping us smiled and loudly exclaimed,
Tarheels! Charles recorded. This surprised us since these priests
often live in very remote places, even for Alaska. However, he has kept up with the
Tarheels ever since a friend and fan introduced him to them.
Duke may
boast the backing of the Methodists, but Ihave learned that Carolina has the backing of
the Russian Orthodox, Isuppose providing some competition in the religion
department.
Passing into Canada, Charless own
religionwas deepened when he and Christian, who both had awakened from their
sleeping bags at 1:30 a.m., experienced something quite heavenly.
There, where there were no clouds in a sky full of
bright stars, the two saw a glow in a shape like a cirrus cloud reflecting the
moonlight. Dancing, the glow soon exploded, and rays fell toward earth.
The glow turned into a wishbone shape and soon, the aurora looked as if it would expand to
earth. Charles was breathless.
Inever thought Iwould get to see an
aurora,he wrote. This had been a dream Ihad since childhood. Ithanked God for
this present during my prayers as I went to sleep.
As the two traveled through the Canadian town of
Deese Lake, through the Canadian Rockies to Quebec to a small hippie town named
Field, extraordinary adjectives to describe what they saw eluded
Charles and he resorted in his journal to describing by cliches phrases
like breathtaking and jaw-dropping.
Especially jaw-dropping was
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump in Canada, where Plains Indians migrated and
camped along a creek below a cliff. The men would chase bison over the cliff, and others
would wait at the bottom to kill any surviving animals. The animals were then skinned and
cut for meals.
One would think that the name
Head-Smashed-In would refer to the bison, which were stampeded to their
crushing deaths. However, it was named for one hunter who, for whatever reason one could
only imagine, decided to wait under the cliff and watch the bison stampede over
. It
was his head that was smashed in. Ithink Ihave known some people like this hunter.
They hiked through Waterton National Park, where
they ate wild berries until Christian told the story of a young man who wanted to
live off the Alaskan land and died after confusing berries and eating a poisonous one
and where Charles was bitten by a nostalgia bug as he dipped a foot in clear, cold
water. It was like being a child again, he said.
But no child was as important as his own, as
sightseeing in Yellowstone National Park and the Grand Tetons brought the two to Jenny
Lake.
Christian and Igingerly stepped and hopped
across the stones of the shore and in the lake to a boulder .
We sat down, side by
side. What a wonderful feeling this is
(being) with my son and enjoying the wonders
of nature
.
I wish this moment would not end, I
said. Christian agreed. Sitting with him there, in the pristine beauty of the Tetons,
enveloped in its quietness after being separated from each other by three years and
thousands of miles, it felt like holding him for the first time when he was born.
Not quite an epiphany, but surely an experience of
celestial magnitude that set the mood for what they would find near the lake.
There stood the Episcopal Chapel of the
Transfiguration, where the Barnes decided to accept the invitation posted on the door that
welcomes anyone to come in and pray. Another sign on the door asks that people not leave
unless they have left a prayer for themselves, for those who provide worship services and
for members and activities of the church.
Christian and Ientered the chapel. We slowly
walked to the front pew for prayer together. We were quiet and looked from side to side as
we walked to observe the chapel. The atmosphere created an encompassing emotional response
Beyond the cross on the altar, through a large
picture window, they saw the most stunning sight Ihave ever seen in a
church,Charles said. Silhouetting the cross were three enormous peaks of the Grand
Tetons, which became the most majestic, amazing and humbling church spires Ihave
ever seen.
They were grounded when they left Yellowstone and
sped down Interstate 90 to the Little Big Horn Battlefield.
We were so moved by this battlefield, where
there are markers across the field to indicate where people were slain, Charles
said. It was interesting to me that the Indian scouts Custer had were Crowe Indians,
whom the Sioux had forced off the land. Thats why they joined the U.S. Army, to try
to remove the Sioux from the lands that used to be theirs. But they knew they were going
to die that day and they prepared themselves.
There is something eerie about seeing where
people died in battle across the landscape. We all appeared to be struck at the same
instance by the realization of violent death for the poor souls before us. Idont
want to make any political statement about the battle or the Indian wars with Custer. The
realization of the tragic death was touching everyone and this transcended politics.
During the third week of the trip, they traveled
through the Badlands, Kansas City and Illinois, Kentucky and Tennessee.
At the end of that week, they toured the Smoky
Mountains and crossed into North Carolina to visit Liz, Charless daughter, who
attends Western Carolina University.
When we got to the Smokies, what was
interesting about it was that after being in all these other biomes and different
biological climactic regions and having camped and hiked several of them, it ended up
being like seeing it for the first time like getting a fresh look at our own
environment,Charles remembered. I had been away for some weeks, and it was
like being in a time warp.
When they arrived home, they found that not only
had Hurricane Dennis ravaged the coast, but Hurricane Floyd had done major damage, as
well. Though their bodies were exhausted and their minds overwhelmed with all the sights
theyd taken in, they were happy to have been together.
We got a chance to talk about different
things that had been tragic to us, like my mother dying the year before,Charles
remembered. (Christian) had been very close to my mother, and we had time to talk
about that. And, of course, cramped up like that we would get on each others nerves
so we had to be tolerant of each other.
The presence of the natural world, including the
danger that exists in it, Charles said, was elating and unlike anything he could find on
this side of the country.
I find in the States that I dont have
the induced tranquility of seeing the natural beauty here, he said. Like when
Im on the highway
Im kind of geared up.
Its (something) to sit on a hillside
and look down a slope at beautiful water, hear beautiful sounds, smell these wonderful
scents
but know, at the same time, a grizzly might be lurking. Youre always
present with that knowledge
that you have to respect the wildlife.
Thats whats different here, you
have the beauty of the wilderness and the danger of it here, but where most danger lies is
not where its beautiful.
He might not have been able to bring back with him
the sights, sounds and environment from his travels, but he can conjure up all those when
he looks through his journal, a copy of which he will send to Christian in Korea.
Undoubtedly, son will be just as thrilled to
recall those memories. But he might be most moved when he reads his fathers words:
I